Varanasi - 'The City of Light'

Resting on the northern shore of the river Ganges, Varanasi is an ancient city steeped in history, mythos, lore, and spirituality. Known 2,500 years ago as Kashi, meaning ‘shining’ or ‘luminous,’ it is among the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities and is regarded by Hindus as the holiest city in India. 

After a stay in the holy city, author Mark Twain wrote “Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together”. It is nothing short of remarkable to walk through streets whose every cobblestone tells stories spanning millennia. Anyone familiar with any of India’s major cities will agree that they all seemingly never sleep, and the same can certainly be said of Varanasi. Its maze of wide streets and meandering cobbled alleyways ebb and flow with a constant stream of people of all walks of life; gurus, labourers, pilgrims, and backpackers are the ceaseless lifeblood of the city. Nestled in these winding alleys, one may find ancient shrines and temples, shops and stalls of all kinds, and a few tourist-friendly eateries such as Aum Cafe, Ashish Cafe, and the Mona Lisa Cafe. All paths in Varanasi lead to the Ghats; steps sloping down the bank of the river Ganges, where the ash covered sadhus sit and offer blessings to passers-by, while smoke from their pipes permeates the air of their tents. Throughout the day, Hindus wash themselves at the Ghats for spiritual purification, believing that the waters of the Ganges cleanses their souls of negative karma. 

The founding of Kashi is shrouded in mystery. Archaeological investigation confirms that the site has existed since at least 1200 BC, placing it in the vedic period of India’s history. According to Hindu belief, Kashi came into existence after Shiva manifested a Jyotirlinga or ‘lingam of light’ when arguing with Brahma about which god was superior. The Kashi Vishwanath temple honours this Jyotirlinga, and is among the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines dotted around India. Shiva and Parvati then made Kashi the site of their winter palace; as such Shiva in particular is extremely significant to the city and its culture. Varanasi is widely considered to be one of the holiest cities in India. Sarnath, a town on the northern side of Varanasi, is the place where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon after reaching enlightenment. It is also known for housing the Lion Capital of Ashoka, a famous artefact and the national emblem of India, featured on the 10 and 50 rupee notes. Throughout the middle ages, Varanasi cemented itself as a centre of spirituality and education, hailing numerous religious leaders, poets, scholars, and reformers. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Mughals invaded and ruled Varanasi, building mosques, forts, and much of the architecture that can be seen today, unfortunately destroying some ancient Hindu temples in the process. Backed by the morally dubious British East India Company, the Hindu Maharajas ultimately reclaimed the city after a power struggle in the late 1700s. 

(written by Kaleb Anderson - my son, after visiting Varanasi with me)

Join me on a yoga retreat to Varanasi and experience first hand its captivating energy. Wander the ancient cobbled laneways, sip chai on the ghats, meditate with Saddhus, watch the rituals of the Aghori, make friends with the cows, experience the power of the Ganga Aarti (fire offering ceremony) and feel saturated in a spiritual devotion as sacred as the River Ganges.